The tree points flex with the horse’s movement, allowing for optimal shoulder clearance, with +2 cm forwardness in the flap.  This saddle is customized for horse and rider, and the adaptability of the tree means that if your horse changes, or if you change horses, you’ll be better able to alter the saddle to fit.  The tree boasts a lifetime warranty, so you can ride in confidence for years to come.

Extra foam in the seat make this the most comfortable jump saddle I’ve sat in to date!  Be sure to check it out on our website!

All of Prestige’s saddles feature their legendary adjustable tree with flexible tree points, allowing for a greater degree of adaptability should your horse change or should you change horses.  The 2000D is crafted of fine Italian calfskin, and features non-gusseted panels flocked with highly elastic synthetic wool.

So come into the store and take one of these saddles out on trial today before they’re gone!

The act of mounting from the ground requires the rider to literally defy gravity, and according to Jeff Thomason, associate professior of biomechanical science at the Ontario Veterinary College in Guelph, Canada, the force that the rider exerts in ground mounting doubles the rider’s weight in the stirrup!   This results in the saddle being jerked down and toward the rider, causing discomfort for the horse, and, over time, damage to your saddle’s tree.  And the farther away the rider is from the horse in height, the more torque (or twisting) the horse experiences.  Considering how tightly girthed our saddles have to be in order to mount without ending up underneath the horse, you can imagine how painful it must be to be jerked around like that. 

Since horses are built more longitudinally stable (their fairly long backs coupled with feet close together),  mounting from the ground inevitably  displaces the horse’s position and throws him off balance.   The pull of the saddle forces the horse to shift his weight to the left legs, thus causing  imbalance to the right.  To compensate for this, the horse must then raise his back on the left side, and, coupling this with the rider’s grasp on the reins, the horse is unable to rebalance himself using his head and neck as a counterweight.

As the rider mounts the horse, the panels of the saddle press against the horse’s spine especially at the withers and digs into the muscles on the near side.  Over time, this regular jarring can have a devastating effect on the health of the horse’s back.  For a horse with chronic back pain, this could mean a greater chance of injury, and, at the very least, an undermining of his chiropractor’s hard work!  A fascinating article on the subject, written by Karen Smith and found at http://equisearch.com/horses_care/health/anatomy/ease_mounting_pressures_021009/, discusses studies done on the effects of ground mounting on the horse. 

Mounting from the ground actually puts the rider at risk, as a horse’s discomfort can lead to misbehavior that can cause the rider to become off-balanced.  According to Doris Bixby Hammett, MD of the AMA, the first 15 minutes of riding (including mounting time) is when the rider is most susceptible to injury, including muscle and tendon strains to concussions from being dragged or tossed off by a misbehaving horse.  Using a mounting block whenever possible will lessen the odds of a mounting-related injury, as there is less strain to the rider as well.

Using a mounting block will provide less strain on the horse, the rider, and the saddle.  Stirrup leathers will last much longer (although you still will want to rotate them regularly to avoid uneven stretching), and your saddle’s tree will definitely experience greater longevity, as there is  significantly less torque applied when mounting from a block.  Considering that a saddle is pretty much useless if the tree has been compromised, it may be considered wise to prevent harm to the tree whenever possible.

Of course some riders will say that they’re not always around a mounting block (like on the trails, for example).  Occasional ground mounting may be necessary, but if your horse will allow you to mount from, say a log on the ground or a strong fence rail, you might want to consider doing so (safely, of course).

Of course a HUGE thank you not only to Michael but also to Frances Bowers, owner of Saddler’s Row, for allowing me to spend time in their wonderful shop.

Cheers!

We need to be able to move with our horses.  This can be difficult with a horse with a big stride and especially so if our saddles don’t fit our horses (or ourselves) properly.  But if we’re riding with our muscles tight, our horses will be unable to provide us with the cadent stride we ask of them.  Test it out:  On your next ride, go down the long side of your arena at the trot with your body as relaxed as possible.  On the next long side, tighten your muscles and brace with your legs.  Do you notice your horse’s footfalls sound LOUDER when you’re tight? Imagine the extra concussion that happens each time your horse’s feet land on the ground.

Understanding the consequences of this extra concussion as a result of rider tension is key to learning how to relax.  You can’t force relaxation.  Believe me, I’ve tried.  Learning how to relax as a rider is something that you do when you’re not even at the barn.   It takes practice, and time, and a level of self-acceptance that some days seems impossible to attain.  I’ve finally learned that if I’m in a stressed-out or otherwise irritable state-of-mind, my horse and I are both better off if I refrain from riding.  I’ll feed her carrots and maybe give her a spa day, because every time I tacked up and rode when I was in a sour mood I hated the ride, and I never could quite relax into it.  My mare, sensing my tension, inevitably acts up, or is super stiff, or decides that the mounting block has suddenly sprouted fangs and is bent on attacking her.  If I ride from a state of relaxation, my mare is relaxed.  She moves freely, willingly, and yes, her footfalls are quieter.

Any bracing on the part of the rider will cause bracing in the horse.  They are our mirrors, so if we do with our bodies what we want our horses to do with theirs, we will automatically notice a rounder, more relaxed horse.  As riders we often tend to grip with our legs and hollow out our backs.  If your back is hollow, the horse’s back will follow suit.   It’s also worth pointing out that riding with tension often leads to (or exacerbates) lower back pain in the rider, and can quite possibly cause neck and shoulder pain as well.  Our best protection for our backs and our horses’ backs is to ride from a state of relaxation.

We need to flow as riders if we want our horses to move with floating, cadent strides.  This can only be achieved if we become balanced in a neutral position that allows us to be in the saddle without bracing.  Riding with our seat bones ever so slightly forward from where we may have been taught to sit, and allowing our legs to move with the horse (as opposed to being perfectly still) is a great way to encourage roundness and suppleness in the horse.  Making sure we are not sitting behind the vertical will also encourage the horse to lift its back and move forward willingly.  At the risk of sounding a little “out there,” we need to become as one with the horse as possible.

A GREAT article on how to achieve the balance and freedom of movement that every rider craves can be found in a November/December issue of Topline Inc. Magazine.  You can access that article here.  Books or audio on relaxation are helpful as well (in all walks of life, not just in the barn).  Breathing exercises will soften muscles and help overcome performance anxiety (perfect for pre-show jitters).    But perhaps the best thing to keep in mind is how much your horse will appreciate it if you’re relaxed when you’re riding, and how much more you’ll enjoy being in the saddle.

So how does this relate to saddle fitting?  It all boils down to comfort for the horse.  We all know by now that in order to do his job well, the horse must be ridden in a properly fitting saddle.  What many of us fail to realize is that not only should the saddle fit comfortably, the rest of your tack should be comfortable as well.

Your girth should have a broad enough surface area to avoid pinching and constricting the skin.  It should be smooth and should breathe well enough so that the heart girth doesn’t overheat.  It should also be double elastic at the buckles to allow the rib cage to fully expand.  And, believe it or not, having rollers on the buckles makes it more comfortable for the horse because they allow for a gentler tightening of the girth.  As a rule, the broader the surface area the more comfortable the girth will be, and a “contour” girth is a little more ergonomic and “horse-friendly,” especially for those horses whose conformation places the heart girth in an awkward spot.  Neoprene girths tend to run hot and do not breathe, so they are not high on my list of favorite girths.  Some horses are sensitive to neoprene (I have one such horse), and the discomfort experienced by the wrong girth can cause behavior issues at the very least.  Leather is far preferable to neoprene, but should be padded leather or ridden with a girth cover to offer the most comfort.  Leather should be cleaned and conditioned regularly to avoid getting hard and cracked.  Synthetic cloth girths are economical and easy to care for, and many are made with a highly breathable material that makes them “cooler.”

Saddle pads are also commonly overlooked when it comes to comfort.  Ultimately, you should not need a complicated padding configuration if your saddle fits well, and adding extra “cushion” to a well-fitting saddle can cause your saddle to not fit properly anymore.  Ultimately, your saddle pad should have plenty of wither clearance and a wide enough channel so as to allow airflow along the spine.  There should be no friction caused by seams or stitching (haven’t you been driven crazy by itchy scratchy tags in clothing?  It makes moving most uncomfortable!).    If your pad sits on your horse’s wither it can cause nerve damage from the excessive friction, not to mention cause or exacerbate tension as the horse moves, which ultimately can cause or perpetuate lameness issues.  Your saddle pad should be longer than your saddle – if your saddle ends on the edge of your pad, think about the pressure of that seam digging into your horse’s back – OUCH!

And let’s not forget the rest of your tack!  Your bridle should be clean and well-conditioned so as to be plenty supple, as the grime that builds up from horse sweat can cause chafing.  Bridles that have padded crown pieces with the caveson strap going over the crown have become very popular of late, because the design helps to eliminate pinching of the poll.  The noseband should NOT be cranked tight, nor should the flash (should you need one at all – that’s an entirely different issue)…you should be able to EASILY get  3 fingers between it and the horse, and the placement of the noseband itself should not be too high nor too low (approximately 1-2” below the cheekbone).  Your bit, too, should be clean with no sharp edges, as these can cause bruising and abrasions in the horse’s sensitive mouth.  The bit should be sized properly, and should not be suspended too high or too low.

Finally, you should also be comfortable when it comes to your saddle, as the rider’s discomfort can have a direct effect on the horse’s comfort (and can also impact the way the saddle fits).  If you’re tense and uncomfortable (and often fidgety as a result) your horse becomes tense and uncomfortable.  Think about it – if horses can feel a fly on their bodies while wearing a light stable sheet, they can feel all of your fidgeting!  If you have a death grip with your legs because you’re not stable in the saddle, your horse is not going to move fluidly (largely because you’re interfering with his breathing – how would you move if you felt suffocated?).    Flailing about up top does nothing to assist the horse in performing the challenging task of carrying himself with 50% of his weight on the hind and 50% of his weight on the fore.  Remember that left to his own devices in the pasture, he’s placing 60% of his weight on the forehand.  If we’re trying to get him to balance his weight when we’re unbalanced, we’re once again interfering with his movement, causing tension in the back and ultimately the legs.  Over time, lamenesses can arise.

What it comes down to is the fundamental need for riders to be just a little more conscious of our horses’ comfort so that they are better able to do their jobs for us. So before you mount up, make sure your tack is as comfortable for your horse as possible.  A little consideration goes a long way toward healthy, happy horses.

The tree points of the saddle MUST rest 2-3″ (or about 3 fingers’ widths) behind the shoulder blade.  For the average jump saddle, this may mean that the flap sits over the shoulder.  As long as it moves out of the shoulder’s way when the horse is in motion, this is ok, as long as the tree points are where they belong.  The tree points are the saddle’s anchor.  They keep the saddle in position on the horse’s back and prevent us from simply rolling under the horse.  Because these tree points are stationary, they must be behind the shoulder blade to allow the shoulder its full range of motion.

If the shoulder is obstructed, the front end encounters extra stress and concussion because the horse is unable to use its back to its fullest extent.  As we all know, extra concussion and stress can result in lameness issues, but shoulder obstruction can cause a sore back and can influence the saddle’s fit.

It may look strange initially when you start putting the saddle in the correct position on the horse’s back, but you get used to it.   When the saddle is where it belongs on your horse’s back, your horse will be more comfortable.   What you’ll find is that your horse will immediately feel as though he moves with greater freedom.  You might notice that he stops pulling or fussing.  He may very well become that much more of a pleasure to ride.

Proper saddle placement. Note that the girth is approximately 1 hand's width from the horse's elbow.

And while we’re on the subject…the girth’s placement is just as important in preventing shoulder obstruction as the saddle’s tree points.  When in its proper position, the girth should be one hand’s width from the elbow.  That’s right…we’ve been cramming the girth in the wrong place too!  If the girth is too far forward it too can obstruct the shoulder’s full range of motion.

So here’s the challenge:  Move your saddle a little further back, so that the tree points are behind the shoulder blade.  Make sure the girth is a hand’s width from the horse’s elbow.  Go for a ride and see if you can feel how much better your horse moves!

Why choose Prestige?   These saddles are extremely comfortable and well-designed, crafted of fine Italian calfskin, and offering a fully-adjustable composite tree that boasts a lifetime warranty. The tree points flex with the horse’s movement, allowing for optimal freedom at the shoulder. The dressages saddles are flocked with a synthetic wool that is more elastic and more resilient than traditional white wool, creating a comfortable, low-maintenance ride. The jump saddles that we care have a high quality natural latex panel that is anatomically shaped to ensure a perfect fit. Flocked models are available.

Check out the saddles that we stock!
Jump: Jumper R, Meredith D, Versailles D.
Dressage: Academy D, Optimax, 2000D

I myself ride in the Prestige Academy D dressage saddle, and both Contessa and I love it!

Here’s a basic breakdown of each saddle’s unique attributes:

• Antares saddles have as many options as one can imagine!  From custom panel options for the perfect fit for the horse to the rider’s ability to choose the length and forwardness of the flap, the depth of seat, and even the twist of the saddle, the Antares saddle is the perfect choice for the most discriminating rider.  The sticky French calfskin leather keeps you secure in the seat, allowing greater confidence and stability as you tackle the most exciting jumps.
• L’Apogee saddles, like Antares, offer a truly custom fit with unparalleled comfort.  The buffalo monoflap design coupled with French calfskin seat offers an amazingly close contact with your horse.  The high quality natural latex panels allow for the perfect fit without a lot of bulk that can be found with traditionally flocked saddles, and the short tree points allow for optimal shoulder movement.  The laminated beechwood spring tree has a 5 year warranty, and there is a 5 year warranty on the leather.
• Prestige dressage and jump saddles are built upon a revolutionary composite tree that is fully adjustable and boasts a lifetime warranty.  The fine Italian calfskin leather is supple and comfortable, breaking in in no time.  The jump saddles have an anatomically correct natural latex panel that maintains elasticity while adapting to the horse’s unique back shape.  These panels retain their original shape when removed from the horse’s back.  The dressage saddles are flocked with Dacron, a synthetic wool that is highly elastic and resists the tendency to ball up like traditional wool can, making it much less maintenance while allowing for the adjustability of traditional wool.

What’s best about our custom saddles is that they’re backed by the Olson’s 100% Satisfaction Guarantee:  if you’re not completely in love with your new custom saddle within 30 days of riding in it, we’ll make it right.  You will not be stuck with a saddle you don’t absolutely adore!

Dawn Anderson and her horse, Contessa

Olson’s is pleased to present our new blog dedicated to saddles and saddle fitting, moderated by our very own Saddle Fitting Specialist, Dawn Anderson.  Join Dawn as she shares her knowledge and tackles common saddle fitting problems.  Please feel free to share your comments and questions about issues pertaining to saddle fit.

And be sure to visit our Saddle Resource Page!  Check in frequently, as we add more content.

DAWN’S IN-STORE HOURS

Monday 10 – 6

Wednesday 10 – 6

Thursday 10 – 6

Friday – Available for Appointment Only

Sunday 11 – 5